Custom grinding, polishing, and buffing
Automotive and household polishing. Motorcycles a specialty.
Mail order, or convenient Central PA drop-off locations
(limited local pickup and delivery available)
Aluminum, brass, stainless, plastic
A Word About Grinding, Polishing, and Buffing:
Grinding: Grinding is necessary to remove deep scratches, gouges, knicks, and the uneven surface of a rough
casting. Grinding is accomplished using rough abrasives beginning with 80-grit and proceeding to 400-grit or finer.
Polishing: Polishing is the process of removing all scratches left by the grinding process. High-speed buffers and
relatively coarse compounds are used.
Buffing: Buffing is also performed with high-speed equipment, but using progressively finer compounds. During the
final buff, the surface material actually flows over itself, reducing microscopic high spots and filling in low areas to
completely eliminate scratches
Porous Metals: Many aluminum and brass items, especially motorcycle parts, contain tiny bubbles within and
throughout the metal. These "pores" are a result of less-than-perfect manufacturing methods. No amount of grinding
or polishing will remove these holes, which show up as pitting or a "grain" in the surface of the part, especially
aluminum. As the metal's surface is ground away, new pores are exposed. Therefore, if your item shows signs of this
condition, it will be visible after polishing and buffing. Your aluminum or brass part will still be amazingly bright and
reflective, but very close examination will reveal these tiny defects. Please be aware that there is nothing we can do to
hide this "pitting". You can see an excellent example here.

My goal is to finish each piece to the best possible brilliance. No work will leave my shop until I am satisfied with it, and
you will never pay full price for a polishing job which you find unacceptable.
In most cases I use a full 9-step process to achieve the best possible finish. Although time-consuming, I've found it
necessary. Shortcuts don't work when perfection is the goal.
All my work is done by hand with stationary and handheld wheels and grinders. I do not use any automatic polishing
machinery nor do I claim to achieve a "concours"-grade finish, since the softness of most grades of aluminum
preclude the attainment of a true optical quality surface (unlike harder materials like chrome and stainless steel).
717-877-3168 www.mikespolishing.com Halifax, PA
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See the "Pricing" page. These figures assume that I will take your part from whatever condition it is in now to as near
perfection as possible for the item.
This means that if you send me a beat-up old piece of junk... er, I mean a rare, valuable part, and you want it made
better than new, it will cost a lot more than if you had sent me a brand-new part only needing polishing and buffing to
make it near-perfect. Or, if you want to make that old beat-up part not perfect but presentable, that will save me some
time (and you some money).
Another factor is the complexity of the part. A small water pump could cost as much or more than a wheel, because
more time is required to get into all the nooks and crannies.
By the way, please remember to take your items apart as completely as possible. You don't want buffing compound in
your bearings, believe me. Also, the cleaner you can get it the better. Again, save me time and you save yourself
money.
A number of people choose to do the rough stuff beforehand, and have me polish and buff their work. This is fine, and
you can save a bunch of money; but please know what you are doing. If I have to go back over it to eliminate your
scratches, your bill will usually be adjusted upwards accordingly. But if you can live with the results, that's fine. In
most cases, the scratches you leave will only be noticeable under very strong direct light, and frankly some swirl marks
don't bother me on my own stuff. But I wanted you to be aware that this polishing deal isn't as simple as it might seem.
What about coatings?
I do not offer clear coating of metal parts, because I don't believe in it. The best seem to last only a few years,
then you are faced with ugly splotches and re-doing the entire piece. You are welcome to use them on your
polished pieces, but I do not recommend it. With proper care your pieces will stay shiny.
Aluminum Care
I've been asked (by non-customers), "Why do my aluminum parts oxidize? It's a pain to polish them every two
weeks!". The answer in most cases is that most of the time, this is not "oxidation"; it's just that your aluminum parts
simply have not been sufficiently polished. Tiny scratches hold dirt; with enough of these scratches present, the
entire surface will look dull. I finally polished my own bike's lower fork legs this spring, have ridden all season in
rain, dust and dirt, and with a simple wipe of a cloth they always look like chrome again. And, if I get a ding or a
stone chip, unlike with clearcoat or chrome I can polish it out and be on my way.
Obtain a few microfiber polishing cloths, available at polishing supply houses or possibly local auto boutiques. Use
these with Flitz (my preference because it has no abrasives), Mother's, or Simichrome polish every month or as
needed. Please note that it doesn't take much to scratch aluminum - don't add to the problem by using nylon scrub
brushes or household rags on your polished parts when you wash.
Testimonials...
"Mike,
I received the valve covers in the mail today. They came out better than expected considering the pores...I'm
very pleased with the work you performed and will pass your name on to others in my area." ...Hiram S.,
Missouri
"Mike did a really good job for an extremely fair price. He's a good guy to deal with." ...Brian H., PA
"Mike,
I just got (the hand controls) yesterday. They look great!! Especially the hand levers, they shine as well as they
did when they were chrome....Great job, great price, great service. I'll send anything I need polished to you
again!!" ........Scott K., SC
"The Shovelhead parts I sent you were from VERY rough castings. I didn't know what to expect. Wow! You
exceeded my expectations. You obviously are detail-oriented. Great work. I will definitely use your service
again when the need arises. I will be recommending you to everyone I know."...Kevin C., NY
"Mike,
Got the wheels last night, they are works of art. I am completely satisfied with mine - I'm sure Freddie will be
too!" ...Jason H., NJ
How long will it take?
I work alone, and all pieces are worked on in the order received. Most parts like wheels, manifolds, etc. take me
anywhere from three to four weeks to complete. Remember: the sooner you get it here, the sooner I can start your
work!
For safety items like wheels, motorcycle frames, brake discs, etc., sometimes there are defects which I will not remove
because it would reduce the thickness of the metal too much. If, for instance, a wheel rim surface has factory-induced
orangepeel or ripples .001 or .002" deep, that means I need to remove that amount of material to get the surface
perfectly flat. In my opinion this is not a good idea, therefore I often leave these defects in place, but I do overpolish
them to the same brilliance as the rest of the item.
"Mike,
Just wanted to say it is a pleasure doing business with you, from the beginning to end. Your contact, updates,
concerns, commitment, professionalism and most of all the quality of your workmanship are all 'first class'. The
Weber manifold was not an easy piece to do, by any means, but you turned out an exceptional finish!
Many thanks." ...Bill M., Derry, NH
"I have had Harley parts both chromed and polished. Chrome is very expensive and hard to get good work
today. Mike's work is cheaper and outstanding. I know my customers will be happy when they get work back
from Mike!" ...Doc
Doc's Hawg Clinic
9521 N US Hwy. 287
Sunset, TX 76270
(940) 845- HAWG
Visitors so far
"Hello Mike, I received the parts - excellent job, well done...I am sending pics to you and I am getting ready to
send you more parts. Thank you! ...Charlie Dorner
Charlie's Place - Truck & Trailer Repairs
115 Sass Road
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
N7M5J4
519-351-0228 (see Charlie's hot rod semi on the Customers' Corner page!)